Napoli: Garbage Mountain and Unlucky Mt. Vesuvius

After visiting Rome, we trained down to Pizza City or Napoli (Naples to North Americans); known for its pizza, high crime rate and ongoing garbage strikes. Naples and surrounding areas have suffered garbage crises for years, the result of corruption, poor management and infiltration by the local mob (The Comorra). The European Commission warned Italy in November that it risked big fines if it fails to implement a the waste management plan, drawn up after the country was found to be in breach of EU legislation in March. On November 18, Italy passed a decree aimed at speeding up construction of new processing plants and garbage incinerators and earmarked an extra 150 million euros (204 million dollars) of funds for the Campania region with promises to clean up the streets by Christmas. Even after garbage trucks took to the streets and worked all night to make only a dent in the heeps, the problem will continue into the new year.


After hiking over garbage mountian in Naples, we felt warmed up and ready to tackle Mt. Vesuvius. To visit the still active volcano, we had many options, only we didn't want to take any of the offered tours. We had heard that it was possible to hike to the summit from the base of Mt. Vesuvius, after taking a local bus (only one or two buses run this route daily) through the village town below (there are only two public buses that run during the day in the off season). But we somehow managed to miss the later part about the bus and found ourselves hiking from the port, through the local villages and traffic for about a hour trying to find the mountain base. Thoroughly limbered up from our casual pre-moutain jaunt, we worked our way up the narrow roadways comfortably until the clouds rolled in. Then came the thunder, the lightening and golf ball-sized rain drops. Fully drenched and hours from our destination point, we we considered sticking the odd thumb out, but the thumb Gods had already heard us. A car with a family of three stopped and let us slop our wet selves into their back seat. Not only did they drive us about a kilometer up the mountain, they also extended an invitation for coffee with their friends. Sounding more like a cult gathering than a friendly cuppa joe, we decided we'd stick to our hike.


We weren't alone for very long once on foot again. A pair of stray dogs decided they'd come along for the hike. Not knowing exactly where the mountain summit was or if it was open due to the time of year, we hoped that by some stroke of luck the dogs would know where they were going. It wasn't until we finally found a fork in the road that the dogs decided to finish their guided tour. Relying on our general sense of direction, we headed the way that said "Gondola" in Italian, we found ourselves at a coffee shop where one of the suggested guided bus tour buses had stopped. The bus driver told us we had passed the entrance way back at the fork (thanks a lot stray dogs) and that the summit was closed due to the weather conditions. Fantastic! We just hiked five hours in Italian monsoons for nothing but a much needed beer, snickers and some good old excercise. The bus driver insisted that we join his tour, free of charge, back to Naples. The rain subsided on our ride back down the mountain and made for some great photo ops.

We would make a second attempt to see the summit of Mt. Vesuvius, but again, due to bad weather guided buses weren't even making the lengthy climb. If you're thinking about checking out Mt. Vesuvius, definitely call the information office first before booking any bus or any five hour hikes.

Interesting Info:
Mt. Vesuvius is a 17,000 year old volcano that is still active today. It is the only active volcano on the European mainland. It has erupted 50 times and the last eruption happened in 1944.

The Limey

The Limey and the Yank get Rejected...For Syrias

To ring in 2011, we decided to hop on a night bus from Groeme, Cappadocia to Antakya Turkey with hopes of making it into Syria, successfully, without a visa. Syria is one of those countries that wears a big question mark as far as visa entry into its city goes. Researching a Syrian visa will leave you as bewildered as trying your hand at a foreign keyboard. Official sites will tell you to get it in advance of your entry into the country, but many people have said that they've been able to walk up to the border and buy a visa on the spot (with the . So, we risked heading to the border visa-less and praying for some new year cheer to help us make it in. If the cheer wasn't enough, I was banking on our good luck rocks or our evil eye (both gift given to us on our travels to help bring good luck) to make things happen for us. That's when the whistle blows. Fowl play, offside, illegal tackle, what have you. We were denied entry.

To enter Turkey you can buy a visa at the border, no problem. The only set-back being, it'll cost you if you're Canadian. Some diplomat somewhere said something blasphemas about Turkey's unfair treatment of Armenians in their country and ever since Canadians have been punished. While all other nationalities will pay from 10 - 15 euros for an entrance visa, Canadians pay 45. Well, as the fruggle traveller wanting to feel like I've scored a deal in absolutely every way possible, we decided to rely on yours truely, the Limey and the Yank. Feeling like we'd scored big time, little did we know that this simple act of logic would be the same reason we'd be turned away from the Syrian border.

We handed over our passports to a man in small cell away from the visa holders. Searching for our Turkey stamps and not finding them amongst the collage of stamps that we'd attained through the last three months, he demanded our Turkish stamp. Begrudgingly handing over our other identies. Grimacing at the faces peering up at him from the government issued pages, I knew almost immediately that this wasn't going to be a good day for the Limey and the Yank. After a few moments the one leather jacket clad guard, who looked like he belonged to the cast of the Sopranos rather than his fellow Syrian officials, ushered us into another office where the head officer quickly told us he would not allow our entry. He said that even if we had Turkish stamps in our Canadian passports and no visas, that MAYBE we would be allowed entry. But as he flopped the Limey and the Yank out onto the table and sneered, it was very clear that he had made up his mind based on international relations that were out of our hands. Morgan tried to reason with the man while I kept silent (not knowing how accepting they would be to a forward thinking and argumentative woman), but he wouldn't budge. Feeling depleted and totally stranded since our bus had already continued on with the accepted ones, we walked back to Turkey, but not before getting some pictures of the little Syria we did see.

If it is at all possible to "ruin" yourself (over exposing yourself to too many histroical ruins and sites), then we definitely were ruined and the only cure called for a change of scenery; new food, new faces, new daily adventures, new weather. Turkey is a fantastic place, and in the last few days that proceeded our Syrian border experience, we had some of the most rewarding travel days we'd had since the beginning of our trip, and although older historical sites (from the world's first claimed city) and cheaper kebab weren't enough to keep up from quickly deciding to head to South East Asia.

Trekking back into Turkey found us hopping on a plane back to Istanbul and booking a flight to Bangkok for the next day. Although we were very eager keep the adventures of the day rolling and play airport roulette by hoping on the cheapest flight to Asia, we decided to save ourselves $500 each and fly our the following day.

It is quite possible that we've been flagged and will face potential hassle upon another attempt at entry into Syria, but the answer will have to wait till our next adventure to the Middle East.

The Limey

Step 1: Get a Tour Guide - Romania

December 5-10, 2010

Coming off an alcohol soaked stint in Budapest, thanks to our new friends at Tiger Tim's Hostel, we prepared for our longest single train ride: a sleeper to Bucharest that was close to 15 hours with only one relativley early border disturbance, in other words a good nights sleep.  Well rested, we looked forward to Romania and seeing an old friend from Vancouver, one of the Vera's Burger crew, Serban.  He set us up amazingly at his place, played tour guide, drove us around town, lent us a cell phone to communicate with and gave us simply awesome suggestions to make the most of our time in Romania.

So far on our travels most of the people we talked to didn't have the the best things to say about Bucharest.  During the day it isn't the most aesthetically pleasing as the construstion underway to modernize and repurpose the former dictator's unfinished monstrosities are slowed by a weak EU economy. One of the first things people notice when walking the Bucharestan steets are the dangling sphaghetti wires that make up the outdated electrical, and tele-communication system in Romania. They have only just begun digging up the streets to use the less sketchy and electrifying method of underground wiring. (Note: Romania also has NO highways). However, at night it comes alive with a reinvigorated old town outfitted with beautifully cobblestoned pedestrian-friendly roads lined with lively pubs, restaurants and cafes.  Unique stylish night clubs are the norm, and the seasonal markets, ice rinks, and x-mas lights make Bucharest a great fun and affordable city for all ages.  We also happened to arrive on the night they light up the main streets with x-mas lights, quite a sight and draws an exuberant crowd.  Before bed we walked to Tea House bunker. Again a place that would go unseen by visitors, but a secret underground tea house for locals. Pages of loose leaf teas from around the world, each person recieving their own personalized rustic pot of tea. Locals cozy up on couches and cushions on the floor, in private cellar style rooms or in hideaway bunks.

After our first day, we jumped back on our Eurail pass and headed to Brasov in Transilvania for the day. We again defied the season with yet another cold but beautifully sunny day. Off the train and an effortless bus trip to the city center we encountered the largest Gothic church between Istanbul and Vienna, the Black Church. Which owns an impressive

collection of Anatolian carpets, the largest collection in all of Europe.

Back on the train, and off to Sigisoara. For all of you Dracula fans, this is the birthplace of Vlad (The Impaler) Tepes, of whom Bram Stoker based his 19th century character on. We stayed at Casa Baroca, at Serban's suggestion. The guesthouse owner picked us up at the train station: a short drive later we were there. Our room was rustic, spacious, full of character, right in the heart of the historic part of Sigisoara, beautiful and best of all affordable. It was more of an apartment, missing only a kitchenette; not to worry, they provided an awesome, filling authentic Romanian breakfast for us well within our budget. The bathroom had a large soaker tub that our wearily travelled bodies took full advantage of after exploring the city and dining at a small restaurant across from the central park that was embarassingly inexpensive, authentic and delicious. Again, thanks to Serban for suggesting that place also. The next day we explored some more in daylight, easily navigating all the sights, Clock Tower, old city walls, churches, by foot on our way to the train station. At night, the medieval village is uniquely up-lit adding to its eerie and scary movie feel.

Back at base in Bucharest, Serban made sure we were treated to some traditional Romanian

cooking, rice and meat stuffed red bell peppers, courtesy of his Grandmother. Simply

amazing, satisfying, and so tasty. On our last night we dined in a beautifully restored,

wood-framed building in downtown Bucharest. It was a bustling spot with traditional

dancing, and food.

Afterwards we went to a Gala Boutique Nightclub. The music was great, the energy quickly rose from the time we arrived. There was a sexy secretary theme going on with complimentary black frame glasses. There was no dance floor cause that's so 90's. Table service was definitely a must for Bucharest's nightclub scene for the usual reason, price and a table.

There wasn't too much of a light show, but great use of space with

visuals and a much more creative decor than my Granville Street pedigree is familiar with more than made up.

Any trip to Eastern Europe wouldn't be complete, in my humble opinion, without a trip to Romania. We had an amazing experience thanks to Serban, seriously, you should work for the tourism board. Anyone could easily navigate these places as well as Sibiu in Transilvania,

which we didn't have time for nor the Black Sea coast which also comes highly recommended.

Interesting Info:

“In Romanian history, couples seeking divorce were locked in the Prison Tower in the Biertan Fortified Church together for two weeks. Sharing one set of cutlery and one bed, before the couple

had to make their final decision. In 400 years, only one couple decided afterwards to go

through with the divorce” http://www.romaniatourism.com/castles-fortresses.html.

If you're looking at buying an apartment in Bucharest, look out for the red danger signs. Looking exactly like a stop sign, these mark buildings that would collapse like a deck of cards if an earthquake were to hit.

The term Gypsy originated from the belief that the Roma people originated from Egypt.

The Yank