One dose of Cotton Castle - Turkey Part V

Pamukkale, which means 'Cotton Castle' in Turkish, is known as the 8th wonder of the world by Turkish people.  It's an UNESCO site visited by tourists from around the world for its post-card beauty and its believed healing powers. 

From a far it looks like a perfectly sugar coated mountain. Getting closer you can make out the jutting calcium terraces shaped like water lilies, others like scallop-shell bathtubs and the simplest ones resembling bleached rice terraces. It is the largest and finest example of elaborate calcium formation in the world. 

 Over thousands of years, the water which flows down the cliff of Pamukkale has carved this fantastic formation of stalactites and basins. The mineral-rich Pamukkale hot spring waters are high in calcium, magnesium sulfate and bicarbonate. They also contain carbon dioxide and are thought to contain radioactive content.

What month are we in again? I wondered as I watched visitors splash about the baths at the end of December. The time of year wouldn't faze us in the slightest as we would take full advantage of the chance to get out of our three-month-old clothing. Really, it's just like being in one really cool communal hot-tub. Water temperatures vary between 35-38 degrees Celsius.

According to ancient tradition, the rick mineral waters within the pools are said to be advantageous in treating various ailments, like high blood pressure and arthritis, and attracting people from all over the world. The water of Pamukkale is especially famous for its benefit to the eyes and skin. Its curing properties are also thought to heal the symptoms of asthma, rheumatism and neurological, gynaecological, nutritional and digestive maladies as well. Reading the long list of healing powers I can't help but think - Doctor/Patient prescription papers in Turkey probably read: One dose of Cotton Castle.

 Unfortunately, but understandably, visitors are no longer allowed to walk on the terraces in order to preserve the natural site. To the ancient civilizations such beauty could only mean that the place was sacred to the gods. Once you make the barefoot climb to the top of Pamukkale, you can explore the ruins of Hierapolis that sit a top the natural wonder. Hierapolis was named after Hiera, the wife of Telephos, founder of Pergamum in mythology.

 

The Limey

Ephes-us For the Rest of Us - Turkey Part IV

Leaving Istanbul on a night bus heading for Selcuk, Turkey, we were heading for Ephesus - one of the best-preserved ancient sites of the world. Our bus arrived at its destination at a lousy three in the morning. Dropped off in the middle of Selcuk's main intersection rather than a bus depot seemed odd and left us wondering if we were even in the right place. Our bus was due to arrive in Epheus sometime after 4am afterall. Except for a lone lap dog that functioned as the neighbourhood's watch dog and sounded very much like a dying car alarm; the city of Selcuk was deserted.

Heeellooo? You could hear yourself echo through the balmy Turkish night. With no one to respond expect for a tough, shaggy blob that thought it was super human and was telling us to get outta here. It was time to break out our hostel camera map. We'd been using a sometimes lucrative method of direction finding that involved taking pictures of the online hostel map given by Hostel World or Hostel Bookers. We were looking for the Kiwi.

Good thing we'd emailed the guesthouse to let them know we'd be showing up at some unpleasant hour. The site said Kiwi was 100 metres away from the bus station, but we had no idea where that was, and there was no big, brown prickly ball jumping out at us. And that's probably a good thing. We were lost, tired and a just about ready to cosy up to Barky Mc Barkison when a random local man walked by us. "Kiwi?" we asked. "Straight!" he pointed, through a small park with a pathway leading 100 metres away from the parking lot slash bus station.

The Kiwi - a dark, gated house that looked uninhabited. No lightage made us hesitant to open the gate a look around, but a lack of sleep and heavy packs would leave us desperate. Unlocking the gate and walking through the front yard, I was ready lap-dog alarm, number two to go off at any second. A security light popped on at the side of the house revealing the doorbell. We waited a few minutes for a older gentlemen with a glass eye and a huge sore on his leg to answer. He'd show us to our closet-sized room and limped away with one creepy, glass eye still on us. A colourful aray of slasher movie scenes would lull me to sleep.

The next morning we were miraculously unmurdered and ready to visit the ancient ruins of Ephesus. Walking to the grounds would take a half hour from Kiwi. A tree-lined boulevard of orange trees and random road-side gym equipment paved the way, providing a free flash workout and laughs.

Beware - Leading up to the gates of Ephesus you'll have to pass through Ripoff Walkway. It's the name I've given the area that is notorious for selling everything fake - including the fake coins you can collect. Getting a guide might be a good idea if you are archeologically inclined, otherwise the ruins do just look like rubble. However, Ephesus was the biggest and more impressive Greek and Roman ruin site we'd visited in Greece and Italy. Unlike the other sites, you can climb on the ruins at Ephesus - maybe even into them.

Historically noted as the death place of Mary Magdalene, Ephesus is a religious destination for those wanting to visit the first church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Ephesus was both an ancient Greek and Roman city. In the Roman period it was for many years considered the second largest city of the Roman empire, second to Rome.

You can pay extra to see the Terrace Houses, aka "houses of the rich". A really neat look into the lives of the wealthy Ephesians who lived in these luxurious houses on the slopes of Bülbül Mountain. The excavations of the terrace houses started in 1960. The restoration of the two of the houses have been finished and can be visited today. We were able to watch some of the archaeologists at work piecing together some millions of frescoed tiles together. Probably one of the most interesting places we've seen so far.

  
 

Turkish delight - or just Mother Nature at her finest? We watched a little field kitty, hunt, strike, play with and then eat a little lizard. Mmm.

Fun Facts:

Situated on the Aegean Sea at the mouth of the Cayster River, the city was one of the greatest seaports of the ancient world. Now it sits six miles away from the sea.

One of the seven wonders of the antiquity, Temple of Artemis, is at Ephesus. A column and scanty fragments strewn on the ground are all that remains of this wonder. Archaeological findings attest to at least four rebuildings of this temple in antiquity.

From circa 100 B.C. to circa A.D. 100 Ephesus was the world capital of the slave trade. 

Hey there neighbour - the toilets at Ephesus were arranged side by side with no partition between them.  Before the rich people used the toilet their slaves sat and heated toilets’ stone for their masters.

Originally holding 25,000 people, the Ephesus ampitheatre was built in the Hellenistic period and was renovated by several Roman emperors.  Designed for theatrical performances, later alterations allowed gladiatorial contests to be held here. The theatre is host to many live, outdoor performances including live past appearances by Diana Ross, Elton John and Sting.

 

The Limey

Sunsets, Babies and Merrymaking - Turkey Part III

 

Taxsim is Istanbul's famous party and shopping district. Hooka bars, restaurants, nik nak shops and local musical talents make the area a colourful sight. Perched a top a hillside, Taxsim overlooks the beautiful setting of Sultanhament. At dusk, the beating sun begins its somber sleep turing the sky into rich strands of gold and amber. The dozens of domed mosques and spear-shaped spires become black paper cut outs in the sky. The call to prayer sounds sending swirls of birds into a frenzie. This moment is truely the beauty that is Istanbul; the sunset.

Searching the Taxsim streets for a lookout spot over Sultanahmet, we happened upon a kiddie park that was seeing more action from cuddling couples and idling dog legs than diapers...perfect. Sitting down on a park bench to watch the sun set on Istanbul was serine. It would also be the perfect place for Morgan and Lindsay to get engaged. Yup, that's right. After three months of in-your-face-all-the-time travel, we've done what some travelling couples would cringe at.

It all happened so fast it's hard to detail. However, us being us, you can always count on someone to do something quirky. What was momentarily a hug was then a transition to bended knee. I haven't seen such a stealth flow of movement since Will Farrel's dance floor routine in Old School. While asking me to marry him and then fumbling around his pocket for the ring, Morgan tried to keep his cool, but he was nervous as all hell. A looked crossed his face that was similar to the one when I get much too close to his card collection. Pulling out the box and presenting the ring couldn't have been more memorable. I looked at him oddly, but still through a smile, seeing no ring. Oh, but there it was sitting at the top of the box. The box was simply upside down. I guess in that moment you're either totally disturbed and disgruntled or completely prepared knowing exactly what to say. Well, Morgan had thrown me for a complete loop because I was in total shock. Not the deer in headlights kind, it was more like la la land and purple haze. Almost having to check for a pulse, Morgan reminded me that this would be the time I'd give my answer. And so, another one bites the dust.

Christmas Eve couldn't have been much better spent in Istanbul. We strutted giddily back to our hostel with a scheduled online sonogram date to make. Mrs. Kate Williams Downs, Morgan's sister, is expecting a baby and we were all going to find out the sex. Girl or boy, we couldn't be more excited to share the experience with California. Logging online to the sono-site, we were wrought with a brutal connection and could only  make out some words from both the doctor and family members. We made out the doctor say that it looked like a boy, but then it was a girl, but Jason was sure he saw a little member. Confused by all accounts, the sonogram was inconclusive. We would find out a couple of weeks later that it's a boy.

Dreams of stuffing, cascading gravey and mash potato mountains of glory would have to wait this year, or would they? We were very lucky to have been extended an invitation to spend a Turkish Christmas Day feast with some newly made friends. Susie and Carol, treated us to a lip-smacking delights and belly-warming Grog (a mixture of water and rum, occasionally doctored with spices or sugar). It was the start to long lasting friendships. Thank you for your more than generous hospitality and great conversation. You made Turkey a very special place for us both.

Ps: Turkish izlaks - sweaty hamburgers that aren't pretty to look at, but are actually delishes. Seriously the thought of them even makes me drool. At first they totally creeped me out, but seeing the local Turks line up for them meant we had to at least try one. Sure enough we'd be kicking ourselves for not trying one sooner. I'm amazed Morgan didn't stash an izlak supply for the road.

Congratulations Kate and Jason.
Çok teşekkür ederim Susie and Carol


A very happy Limey

Morgan Gets a Man Bath - Turkey Part II

Nortoriously listed as one of the top 100 things to do before you die, the Turkish bath is quite an adventure. Unlike your typical tub with bubbles, a little rubber ducky and total relaxation, the"hamam" is where you go to get cleaned. And after three months of travel, it is more compulsory than a suggestion.

 It's quite common that most people are quite nervous to encounter a true Turkish bath. I mean let's be serious, what really goes on in a public bath?  


Will it be like bath time with siblings? If it is, I'm defintely getting in trouble and someone is absolutely getting soap in the eye. Are shampoo fauxhawks allowed? It is a social event though and even back in the Roman and Byzantine eras, the baths were very much a place for social gatherings from weddings, birthings, possibly even chess clubs. It was here that mothers would even scout out potential wives for their sons.

The process is quite interesting to watch and I had the luxury of watching Morgan get bathed by a hurly-burly Turkish man. To be honest, it's hard to say who I think enjoyed it more, but I'll venture to say it was the Turkish man. 

Entering the main common room with a large heated stone slab in the centre, you use the tas, or water pan, to pour cold water all over yourself. The burly Turkish man, wearing nothing but a mini dish cloth and a smile, took the water pan and tossed water at Morgan, laughed and slapped Morgan's belly. Once you've cleaned yourself, the actual cleaning will begin. The large burley Turk grabbed Morgan by the ankle, who was resting on the centre slab, and dragged him the edge of the centrepiece. He is soaped up and scrubbed down, flipped, and done on the other side. The post-clean massage was vicious and Morgan winced in pain while the half-naked Turk chuckled. I sat and watched, laughing the entire time. My turn would be next, but in a seperate room with my Turkish bathing mother who sang while she cleaned me.

Let me say that I didn't realize just how dirty I was until I was scrubbed down by a Turkish woman. Using the "kese" (keh-seh), a rough cloth mitt scoures the dirt out of the pores and used to deliver a bracing massage. You'll shed so much skin it'll amaze you that you've even got any left. You walk away feeling so clean you won't want to touch anything and definitely be questioning your own cleansing methods. Have I been bathing myself wrong this whole time? Oh, and you will be asked to get nude, well half nude. Wearing a bikini is ideal. A thin bath towels called a peshtemal is wrapped around the body and when you meet your Turkish mother, she'll ask you to remove it, then scrub you in every crack and crevis. 

Squeeky Clean

The Limey

Europe and Asia in Five Minutes - Turkey Part I

After the gong show that was Athens, we hopped on our first flight in three months. Voted the European Capital of Culture for 2010, we were off to Istanbul, Turkey. Previously known as Constantinople; Istanbul is where the world connects East and West. There's no other place in the world where you can be welcomed into Europe and Asia in the span of five minutes when your driver realizes she's missed the required exit.

To see Istanbul requires as little as putting one foot in front of the other. Walking into the Sultanahmet district each day we would cross the Galata Bridge. Passing over the Golden Horn waters, the bridge is home to hundreds of fisherman. Walking underneath the bridge you’ll find tons of seafood restaurants and great views of the fishing lines. Beware of the menus you're sure to have skim your face, and the off fishing line you might spot whizzing past your face, sometimes full of wriggling fish. Fresh seafood is a treat to try in Istanbul. From fresh barbecued fish baguettes off the colour fishing boats for 4 TL at the end of the Galata Bridge or rice stuffed oysters squeezed with lemon or orange juice and tipped into your mouth, Istanbul is the seafood lovers wet dream.

The Spice Market, also known as Egyptian Bazaar, was one of the markety-markets I’d been waiting for. Unlike the Grand Bazaar, which I had high hopes of being blown away by, it fell short on account of being too shopping-mall-ish and too commercially contrived. The Spice Market, where vendors toss buckets of mackerel in the air for the seagulls and are housed in shanty-stable type stalls, is a true market.

We hadn’t been in the place more than five minutes and we hit some action. A large group of people were swarming around something on the floor. Bent over and carrying what looked like cups of colourful goo, I peeked through some arms and legs to see what the fuss was all about. Two large boxes had been opened up and the contents were free for the taking, only it wasn’t full of SPCA kittens so I hesitated. Hey, if the locals were going nuts over it.... I snafooed one of the cups, and a spoon from the box man, and dug in. Similar to a rice pudding, Sutlac is the Turkish name for the grey goo delicacy full of pistachios and dried fruit. Thinking I had just scored big time we muscled our way through the crowds toward more action. Plates of Turkish delight were shoved in my face. Reluctant to take any, knowing it would cost me or mean I could now be faces the beginning phases of a carpet deal, the man insisted it was free. Jumping at a chuck of powdery goodness (I must say I am not a fan of Turkish delight, but the real deal is delish) the Turkish man’s wingman says “One Lira” to which I retaliate by blowing a puff of Turkish delight powder at him, “You said FREE!”

Suddenly the skies open up and some heavenly being strikes a chord. No, it wasn’t God; it was the timely call to prayer beckoning people to their knees.  The Blue Mosque, famous for its interior blue tiles, is still a working mosque and place of worship. Inside you can find the sectioned off cubby-hole areas behind the shoe stands where the women pray. The rest of the entire mosque is open for men’s prayer. The intricacy of the tiles and the hanging light fixtures are truly beautiful and to see them is free.

On Turkish Carpets: No I didn't buy one and I must admit that I’m hurt that I wasn’t hustled into some secret room with the door bolted shut behind me as some fine Turkish gentlemen wooed me with his tea and crafts. If anything I was more accosted with restaurant menus and chai (Turkish tea) than anything. 

Apologies for the late post.

The Limey